IL NOSTRO VIAGGIO IN PERU’ E BOLIVIA.

Un viaggio ricco di sensazioni che non dimenticheremo.

Agosto 2010

Noi viaggiamo per passione e da anni. Tantissimi chilometri di esperienze in giro per il mondo, ma anche dietro l’angolo nella nostra carissima e amatissima Italia. Abbiamo conosciuto persone nuove, incontrato nuove culture, condiviso con molti la vita di tutti i giorni. Come molti amici di vari blog sparsi sul web ci piace condividere le nostre esperienze, fornendo dati conoscitivi del viaggio, significativi a quanti stanno per vivere un’esperienza simile alla nostra.  Noi crediamo che qualsiasi forma di viaggio, che sia vissuta in sacco a pelo, in totale libertà, oppure in modo organizzato sia una forma d’esplorazione del mondo che va condivisa.  Lo spirito di un blog è proprio quello di scambiarsi info utili su una meta che si conosce o che si sta per visitare. Ognuno vive i luoghi che si visitano in modo del tutto soggettivo. Perchè ognuno vive il suo viaggio con la propria mente, guarda con i propri occhi. Se ci si muove da soli e si preferisce tale forma di viaggio, anche noi abbiamo vissuto tante esperienze così, cerchiamo di fornire le notizie che, a nostro avviso, potrebbero risultare utili anche ad altri.  Cerchiamo di condividere ciò che sperimentiamo, che so consigli pratici su come muoversi concretamente, pulmann da prendere, luoghi dove fermarsi o da evitare. Ci piace parlare spesso della cultura locale che incontriamo magari parlando del gusto di un piatto che puoi assaggiare solo lì e non altrove.

Alcuni viaggi nascono per caso. Altri perchè di moda.  Altri ancora per passione. Come il nostro. Complice il romanzo “El mundo es ancho y ajeno” di Ciro Alegria. Attraverso le sue pagine è nata in noi curiosità, desiderio di conoscenza verso il Perù, la sua cultura, le sue tradizioni e non ultima la sua cucina. Questa volta però, non facciamo tutto da soli. Cominciamo a parlarne in giro. Il tam-tam raggiunge amici e conoscenti. Si riesce a riunire un gruppetto di amici che saranno i miei compagneros di viaggio. Decidiamo dove e cosa vogliamo andare, vedere e fare. Uniamo idee e propositi. Contattiamo un tour operator con cui abbiamo già fatto, organizzato alcuni dei nostri viaggi decisamente ben riusciti. Nel corso degli anni ne abbiamo contattato diversi con cui ci siamo trovati bene. In questo caso ci è sembrata molto interessante la proposta di Mundo Escondido sia per prezzo che il programma di viaggio. Ne avevamo presi diversi in considerazione ma la loro offerta in merito a questo viaggio era in assoluto la più allettante.

Ci lasciamo consigliare e proponiamo. Si attraverserà il Perù  in largo e largo, da nord a sud. Ci attendono Lima, le islas Ballestas, Nazca, Arequipa, il Canyon Colca- Chivay, il lago Titicaca, …e molto altro ancora tra paesaggi mozzafiato e luoghi che testimoniano l’antichissima cultura locale. Si parte. Arriviamo di sera all’Aeropuerto internacional Jorge Chavez di Lima. Ci accoglie un caledoscopico gioco di luci, una babilonia di lingue e quel caos endemico che accomuna tutti i paesi dell’America latina. L’assistente locale è lì pronto ad attenderci con il suo “benvenidos amigos!”. Ci accompagna in hotel. Una cena veloce e dritti in camera. Dedichiamo la nostra prima mattinata a Lima alla visita del suo centro storico. Tutto si articola attorno a Plaza de Armas, dalla quale parte una maglia molto regolare di strade. Visitiamo la Cathedral con i due campanili in stile neoclassico. Di seguito, lungo l’Avenida Ancash, la Chiesa di san Francisco, il complesso religioso più interessante del paese. Molto interessante il suo interno decorato con azulejos. Poi, nelle vicinanze Casa Aliaga, considerata una delle residenze più antiche della città. La sera la trascorriamo nel suggestivo quartiere di Barraco sulle pendici di un’altura. Siamo catturati dalla sua atmosfera bohemien, dai suoi tanti bar, locali, ristoranti, alcuni dei quali propongono anche musica dal vivo. Dopo una giornata dedicata a chiese, piazze e musei si mangia. Io ordino una chupe de camarones,una buonissima zuppa di gamberoni, patate, piselli e uova soda. Per finire un suspiro a la limena, un dolce al latte aromatizzato alla cannella. Anch’esso buonissimo. E’ tardi, avremmo voglia di andare in uno dei tanti salsadromos ma si è stanchi e si va a letto …. diiii coooorsaaa. Il secondo giorno di buon’ora si parte per Paracas dove ci attende il battello per l’escursione alle vicine isole della riserva marina, Las Islas Ballestas. Prima d’imbarcarci, avendo ancora un po’ di tempo ne approfittiamo per acquistare alcune stoffe coloratissime. Quelle di Paracas sono considerate le più belle di tutto il Perù! La riserva marina dista una quindicina di chilometri dalla costa ed è popolata da una ricchissima fauna, numerosissime colonie di uccelli e di leoni marini. Nel tardo pomeriggio ci muoviamo alla volta di Nazca che raggiungiamo dopo circa 3 ore di viaggio. Anche questa giornata è volata. Si cena e si va a dormire. Giornata ricchissima di cose da vedere la terza. In mattinata a bordo di un veivolo da turismo sorvoliamo le enigmatiche linee di Nazca, visibili solo dall’alto. Circa diecimila figure scavate nel terreno. Figure che raggiungono anche i duecento metri di lunghezza. Disegni di scimmie, ragni, uccelli, fiori o semplici figure geometriche. Rimaniamo senza parole. La nostra visita al Perù prosegue con la visita di Arequipa, la seconda città del Paese, a cui dedichiamo il terzo giorno. Ci ritroviamo al centro del deserto montuoso delle Ande occidentali a 2325 metri d’altezza dopo aver costeggiato il Pacifico, percorrendo la Panamerica. Ci piace molto Arequipa che comunemente viene chiamata la ciudad blanca. Giornata intensa trascorsa visitando gli edifici storici della città, le chiese e qualche museo. Casa Ricketts è uno degli edifici coloniali più interessanti che visitiamo. La sera assaggiamo altre specialità della cucina locale. Stavolta assaggio l’arroz con pato, riso con anatra e una buona birra arrequipeña. Dico a me stesso: Ottima scelta. Stanchi ma soddisfatti si va a dormire. Nel gruppo si è instaurata una piacevole armonia, di giocosa complicità. Si scherza, si ascolta con attenzione ciò che le guide locali, molto preparate, ci raccontano e aggiungono a quanto già sappiamo. Perchè tutti noi amiamo il Perù e ci siamo informati, ognuno a modo proprio, su questo paese. I giorni successivi li dedichiamo alla visita del Canyon del Colca-Chivay. Il punto più panoramico è la Cruz de el Condor. Siamo a quota 4000 mt. Nelle vicinanze del nostro hotel ci sono le terme. Ne approfittiamo per concederci un bagno rilassante. Per accedere paghiamo appena 3 euro! Tra le visite successsive quelle a Yaca e Maca, due minuscoli pueblos ove apprezziamo molto l’atmosfera colorata del mercato locale, la complicata geometria dei tessuti artigianali esposti. Compriamo qualcosa da portarci in Italia come ricordo di queste terre. Proseguiamo ancora attraverso le Ande. Prossima meta: Puno sul lago Titicaca. In circa sei ore, percorriamo strade su una media di 4.000 mt di altitudine. I paesaggi che ci scorrono in lontananza sono da cartolina. Arriviamo a Puno, un importante città sul “ piccolo mare tra i monti”. Si cena Io prendo le conchitas a la parmesana, una grigliata di capesante con un bel po’ di parmiggiano sopra. Buonissime! Qualcun’altro assaggia il tipico huatia, un piatto a base di manzo stufato aromatizzato alle erbe. Poi si fila dritti al letto. Ci si alza presto. Dopo colazione ci aspetta una delle escursioni più interessanti programmate da Mundo Escondido: La visita alle Islas Flotantes, isole galleggianti. Rimaniamo colpiti da queste “terre” costruite artificialmente dalle locali popolazioni degli Uros. Micro isole costruite come zattere dove ci sono case, scuole, mercati. Sempre in lancia visitiamo la Isla Tequile, un luogo dove il tempo sembra essersi fermato. Nessun segno tangibile di modernità. Zero auto. Gli abitanti trasportano ancora le merci sulle spalle per oltre 500 gradini dal punto di sbarco al punto più alto del villaggio. Rientriamo in lancia a Puno. Prima del rientro in hotel, ammiriamo il panorama cittadino dalla sommità del parco Huajsapata. 9° giorno del nostro viaggio in Perù. Oggi il programma prevede la visita al complesso archeologico di Tiwanaku in Bolivia. Quindi facciamo una breve toccata e fuga oltre confine. Solo qualche ora in Pullman e ci ritroviamo in Bolivia. Numerose le leggende che ci vengono raccontate sul sito e sul lago. Una delle più fantasiose è legata alla mitologica città d’Atlantide. La nostra permanenza in Bolivia è di appena due giorni, uno dei quali lo dedichiamo alla visita di La Paz, la capitale. Ne visitiamo le sue piazze popolari e storiche, il famoso mercato indigeno stracolmo di specialità. Sul tardo pomeriggio lasciamo La Paz, attraversiamo la Valle della Luna, e arriviamo a Puno via Copacabana. Il giorno successivo abbiamo in programma una visita a Cusco, la famosa capitale degli Incas ed una delle più famose città delle Americhe. Partiamo verso le 9.00, subito dopo colazione. Lungo il tragitto in pulmann, ci fermiamo alle rovine archeologiche di Pucarà, di Raqchi, e al piccolo pueblo di Andahuaylillas. Arriviamo a Cuzco verso le 16.00. Ramon, la nostra guida che parla anche la lingua quechua degli indos, ci racconta che quando Colombo scoprì le Americhe, Cuzco era all’apice del suo splendore, ma il suo splendore durò appena due secoli e andò man mano scemando con l’arrivo dei conquistadores spagnoli guidati da Francisco Pizzarro. La leggenda racconta anche che sia stata fondata nel punto esatto in cui si trova l’ombelico del mondo. La visita della città la facciamo il giorno successivo, il 12° del nostro viaggio. Saliamo persino le ripide scale del campanile della cattedrale per goderci una vista mozzafiato a 360° sulla città. Le architetture coloniali sono sovrapposte alle possenti mura degli incas. Un meraviglioso gioco d’incastri! A pochi chilometri da Cuzco si trova la valle del Rio Urubamba, la valle sacra degli Inca che visitiamo il 13° giorno del nostro viaggio. Iniziamo da Pisac dove veniamo catturati dal colorito mercato locale. Troviamo tanti prodotti della terra come le foglie di coca, il pane, il mais, oltre ai tradizionali maglioni di lana di alpaca. Ci spostiamo quindi al villaggio inca di Chinchero, circondato da una serie di terrazzamenti scavati nella roccia. Pranzo con degustazione di prodotti locali e poi ripartiamo alla volta di Ollantaytambo, punto terminale della valle sacra, dove visitiamo la sua antica fortezza inca e il Museo CATCCO, dedicato alla storia locale e alla ceramica.Partiamo quindi in treno dalla vicina stazione di Valle-Poroy per Aguas Calientes che raggiungiamo dopo quasi due ore di viaggio.Il 14° giorno è sicuramente il più atteso. Raggiungiamo in pulmman GT la cittadella perduta di Machu Picchu. Il sito è patrimonio Unesco ed è uno dei più visitati del paese.Incredibile il flusso di gente! La particolarità del sito è indubbia. La perfezione delle mura, realizzate a secco, ha fatto nascere tutto una serie di leggende. E le tante storie che ci raccontano, tutte possibili, hanno il sopravvento sulla realtà. Il nome in lingua quechua, impronunciabile, significa “dove il vento viene usato per raffinare l’oro”, oro che non vedremo in questo sito, ma nelle sale dello spettacolare Museo dell’Oro di Lima che visitiamo, avendo ancora un pomeriggio libero, l’ultimo giorno prima della nostra partenza dal Perù. Saluti e speriamo anche noi di leggere presto le vostre esperienze di viaggio in Perù! Giò and Zoe

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